In the present day is the 58th anniversary of the primary ascent of 4,892m Mount Vinson, the very best peak in Antarctica.
Antarctica has three predominant mountain ranges. The Antarctic Peninsula Cordillera runs the total size of the Antarctic Peninsula. Additional south lie the Ellsworth Mountains. Lastly, the Transantarctic Mountains run north to south, splitting the continent into East and West Antarctica. Mount Vinson is within the Sentinel Vary of the Ellsworth Mountains.
The Ellsworth Mountains run 360km from north to south beside the Ronne Ice Shelf and are 48km extensive. The northern half of the Ellsworth Mountains known as the Sentinel Vary. It options 33 peaks. The subsequent highest peak after Vinson is 4,852m Mount Tyree.
Antarctica and its mountains. The purple dot marks the situation of Mount Vinson. Photograph: MountainIQ
The Vinson Massif
In his e book Mountaineering in Antarctica: Climbing within the Frozen South, Damien Gildea described the Vinson Massif as “a great white bulk of terrain around 15km long by 15km wide…crowned with numerous small peaks situated around a high, windswept plateau of bare ice, from which several long ridges drop down to the surrounding glaciers.”
Mount Vinson was named after U.S. Senator Carl G. Vinson for his help of U.S. exercise in Antarctica through the mid-Twentieth century. In actual fact, researchers had already proposed the identify “Vinson” for Antarctica’s highest mountain even earlier than explorers discovered it.
Till 2006, Antarctica’s highest mountain was known as Vinson Massif reasonably than Mount Vinson. In 2006, after a number of climbing and GPS mapping expeditions within the Sentinel Vary, researchers instructed that Mount Vinson ought to particularly denote the very best summit of this massif. The Antarctic Place Names Committee of the U.S. Geological Survey accepted the proposal.
A few of the huge mountains within the Sentinel Vary. Photograph: John Evans
The invention of the Vinson Massif
On Nov. 23, 1935, American aviator Lincoln Ellsworth flew over the Sentinel Vary. However thick clouds meant he might solely spot just one small peak. He named it Mount Ulmer after his spouse, Marie Louise Ulmer.
Antarctica’s highest mountains remained nearly fully unknown till the Fifties. In 1957, a U.S. Navy flight noticed the peaks of the Vinson Massif.
In January 1958, a U.S. Navy flight from Byrd Station sighted excessive mountains additional east in Ellsworth Land. In the course of the 1958-59 season, a floor get together headed on this course and located mountains that appeared increased than something but found on the coldest continent. This was the Vinson Massif.
In 1961, U.S. scientists Tom Bastien and John Splettstoesser climbed 2,370m Mount Wyatt Earp on the northern finish of the Sentinel Vary. Researchers explored Union Glacier and close by areas in 1963 and 1964 however didn’t make any vital ascents.
A Twin Otter at Vinson Base Camp. Photograph: Damien Gildea
A coveted goal
In 1960-61, The Mountain World revealed an image of the Vinson Massif and proclaimed it the very best peak in Antarctica.
“Independently, and very nearly simultaneously, this generated interest among the [climbing] groups in the United States,” Brian Marts wrote within the American Alpine Journal.
It was a tempting goal. Mount Vinson remained unclimbed, and the entire vary was untouched aside from geologists’ ventures onto decrease peaks.
One climbing group approached the issue of acquiring permission and help with a scientifically oriented expedition proposal, whereas one other appealed strictly from a mountaineering standpoint.
In September 1966, Nicholas Clinch, the one American to steer a primary ascent of an 8,000’er (Gasherbrum I in 1958), acquired a cellphone name. The U.S. authorities would grant the American Alpine Membership permission for an expedition to Antarctica, and Clinch would lead it.
The 2 climbing teams hoping to make the primary ascent of the Vinson Massif had been merged to kind the American Antarctic Mountaineering Expedition. The workforce included J. Barry Corbet, Eiichi Fukushima, Brian Marts, Pete Schoening, Samuel Silverstein, Richard Wahlstrom, William Lengthy, John Evans, and Charles Hollister.
Wanting south over the Vinson Massif from the higher southwest face of Mt. Shinn. Photograph: Damien Gildea
Arrival
On Dec. 3, 1966, the workforce arrived in New Zealand then boarded a Navy C-130 transport airplane.
Arriving in Antarctica, they spent about 30 hours repacking and organizing at McMurdo Base after which flew to the vary. Due to poor visibility, they might not land. As an alternative, they diverted to Byrd Station, the place they waited for 10 hours.
“From the air, the peaks had been spectacular,” Marts mentioned in his expedition report. “Here on the plain, they were overwhelming. Rising abruptly from the flat plateau, this was the most beautiful range I had ever seen.”
On December 8, the workforce landed a ski-equipped LC-130 on flat ice round 20km west of the primary peaks. From there, they used a snowmobile to hold their provides nearer to the mountain.
The 1966 workforce at McMurdo. Photograph: John Evans
The primary ascent
On December 9, they arrange Base Camp and stuck rope to a col at 3,353m. There, the reconnaissance get together of Sam Silverstein, Dick Wahlstrom, and Eiichi Fukushima established a camp.
They recognized a slim hole within the ridge working southwest from Mount Shinn as a potential entry level to the precise slopes of Vinson and named it Sam’s Col.
The workforce discovered a route by means of the icefall to the Vinson-Shinn saddle at 4,206m and returned to Base Camp. So far, the climate had been good, however on the night of December 15, a storm arrived.
“Within three hours, the base was a shambles. Two of our tents were flattened, and gear was strewn about the glacier,” Marts recalled.
The storm continued till December 17. Afterward, the workforce couldn’t discover all their gear, however the expedition continued.
Schoening and Evans on the summit of Mount Vinson on Dec. 18, 1966. Photograph: John Evans
On December 17, Pete Schoening, John Evans, Barry Corbet, and Invoice Lengthy moved previous Camp 2 and arrange Camp 3 at 4,510m. In the meantime, three extra workforce members moved to Camp 1.
On December 18, Barry Corbet, John Evans, Invoice Lengthy, and Pete Schoening reached the summit of Mount Vinson. They took images with the flags of the 12 authentic signatories of the Antarctic Treaty organized in a circle. Over the following two days, the remainder of the workforce additionally summited.
Low Camp, Excessive Camp, and the summit of Vinson. Photograph: Damien Gildea
Different ascents by the 1966 workforce
On December 21, 22, and 24, workforce members ascended Mount Shinn. On Jan. 6, 1967, Corbet and Evans ascended Mount Tyree. On January 12, Lengthy, Schoening, Fukushima, and Marts ascended Lengthy Gables. The identical day, Evans, Wahlstrom Hollister, and Silverstein ascended Ostenso.
Unauthorized ascent
The second ascent of Mount Vinson got here on Dec. 22, 1979. Werner Buggisch and Peter von Gizycki from Germany, and Victor Samsonov from Russia adopted the American route. However their expedition was not approved.
In response to Damien Gildea, the three males wanted to do area work low on the mountain however had been instructed to not go for the summit.
“Yet, after being dropped by helicopter at a base west of Sam’s Col, they could not resist the urge to climb Antarctica’s highest peak,” Gildea wrote in his e book.
They left Samsonov’s ski pole with a purple flag on the highest.
In 1983, Dick Bass and Frank Wells had been pursuing the then-novel thought of the Seven Summits. On their expedition to Vinson, they had been joined by Chris Bonington, Rick Ridgeway, and Steven Marts (who filmed the climb). Bonington reached the summit with Bass, whereas Wells and the others topped out every week later.
Mountaineers transfer as much as Excessive Camp on Mount Vinson. Photograph: Madison Mountaineering
The Vinson flag thriller
John Evans, a part of the primary ascent workforce, recounted a comic story in his e book concerning the first ascent of Vinson. The later 1979 workforce discovered a flag flying from a bamboo pole on the summit. Evans didn’t imagine {that a} flag might have survived on the highest for thus lengthy in Antarctica’s harsh wind. However who else might have put the flag there?
Evans believed that any person could have snuck to the highest. So he began performing some detective work.
Evans bought in contact with Gizycki from the 1979 workforce. Gizycki informed Evans that he had introduced the flag again to Germany and had it in his basement. He despatched Evans some photos of the flag.
“Armed with these pictures, I proceeded to pester a great number of busy people in the hope of at least ascertaining the country of origin,” Evans wrote in his e book.
Evans additionally returned to his summit images from Dec. 18, 1966. There, to his embarrassment, he discovered the reply.
In one of many images, Invoice Lengthy was posing on Mount Vinson’s summit with that mysterious flag.
“Bill confirmed forthwith that it was the flag of his home institution, Alaska Methodist University, and that he had planted it on the summit in my presence before we started down,” Evans wrote.
How the flag survived 13 years on the summit stays a thriller.
Peter von Gizycki presents Invoice Lengthy’s 1966 summit flag to Pete Schoening’s daughter in Germany in 2007. Photograph: John Evans
Some extra notes
Since its first ascent, roughly 1,400 folks have ascended Mount Vinson, with no deaths registered. It prices round $54,000 per particular person to climb Vinson.
In 2004, Rodrigo Fica, Damien Gildea, and Camilo Rada measured the peak of Vinson utilizing GPS. This workforce additionally made first ascents of many sub-peaks on the Vinson summit plateau.
On Jan. 1, 2005, Gildea eliminated the summit register e book on Vinson from the aluminum cylinder during which it had sat for many years.
“The book was full, no longer useable, and I felt it would be too tempting a prize for a thief, given some recent similar problems in Antarctica,” Gildea wrote within the American Alpine Journal. The e book is within the American Alpine Membership museum. A substitute register was organized.
Some non-standard routes up the Vinson Massif. Photograph: Damien Gildea
For extra on Mount Vinson and the 1966-67 expedition, we advocate: Vinson and Tyree, Antarctica: The 1966-67 American Antarctic Mountaineering Expedition by John Evans and Mountaineering in Antarctica: Climbing within the Frozen South by Damien Gildea.
You may learn a climber’s information to Mount Vinson right here.
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