The Piolets d’Or ceremony, held final Tuesday in San Martino di Castrozza, was not nearly awarding climbs and climbers. Mountains and situations on them are so completely different that how do you rank one or two expeditions above the remainder?
On the floor, the three-day gathering, which all the time takes place in stylish European mountain hubs — Chamonix generally, the Dolomites this yr — could seem to be a venue the place growing older veterans applaud aggressive youthful alpinists prepared to danger their lives for a “best of the year” trophy. Actually, the organizers insist it’s a celebration of the spirit of mountaineering. Additionally it is a time to mirror on sure important points in alpinism.
Awarded climbers at a press convention earlier than the ultimate ceremony. Photograph: Angela Benavides
Enhanced consciousness
“I wanted to make the impossible possible,” stated American recipient Alan Rousseau. After watching the video of his group’s first alpine-style ascent of the north face of Jannu, his assertion appeared nearer to an announcement of truth than to a promotional one-liner. The two,700m Himalayan wall is solely insane. An infinite face plastered with ice, vertical for many of its size after which, on the higher third, overhanging. Their climb was past superlatives.
Rousseau and companions Matt Cornell and Jackson Marvell described the four-day ascent. On the final two days, past exhaustion, they spoke of an “enhanced level of consciousness,” which included a phantom fourth member that each one of them perceived, listened to, and accepted.
Some 100 vertical meters under the summit, one of many climbers found that his fingers had been frostbitten. After a five-minute dialogue, they determined to proceed to the highest. They stood on the summit for only a few minutes, already hallucinating.
After rappelling down the face for 2 days, they lastly stepped onto the glacier past exhaustion.
“At the end of the last rappel, we had just one Camalot left, a couple of hooks, and no screws,” Rousseau stated. Had they wanted greater than one other two rappels, they’d have been caught.
Left to proper, Matt Cornell, Jackson Marvell and Alan Rousseau. Photograph: P. Drozdd/Piolets dOr
Apparently, nobody within the viewers appeared too shocked by the ghost companion and the hallucinations. A number of climbers within the small auditorium had likewise skilled such sort-of-supernatural happenings.
The Jannu group was not alone in mentioning that state of enhanced notion. The younger Swiss trio of Hugo Start, Nathan Monard, and Matthias Gribi additionally had that mind-set as they adopted a sequence of ice funnels on the north face of Flat High. They had been utterly unsure whether or not they would discover an exit to the summit or if their route would useless finish sooner or later.
The fallen
Then got here the transferring presentation of The Secret Line, Kazuya Hiraide and Kenro Nakajima’s pioneering route on the north face of Tirich Mir. This was Hiraide’s fourth Piolet d’Or and Nakajima’s third, however neither was alive to obtain it. They each perished this summer time whereas trying Hiraide’s lifetime dream: a brand new route up the West Face of K2.
As he defined in an interview with ExplorersWeb, Hiraide was slowly constructing towards K2 all through the years.
“One mountain led me to the next,” he stated, and all mountains led to K2. The youthful Nakajima had turn out to be Hiraide’s companion after the dying of Kei Taniguchi and accompanied him on that final deadly climb.
Kazuya Hiraide’s household and Tae Nakajima, at proper. Photograph: P. Drozdz/Piolets d’Or
Hiraide and Nakajima’s widows, Joko and Tae, picked up their late husbands’ awards. In an ungainly second, Hiraide’s children had been additionally referred to as onto the stage.
Shortly earlier than, there was a minute of silence on behalf of the Japanese and different previous Piolet d’Or winners who died within the mountains this yr: Sergey Nilov, hit by a falling serac whereas making an attempt to retrieve the physique of his companion (killed in 2023) on Gasherbrum IV, and Archil Badriasvili of Georgia, struck by lightning whereas climbing at residence within the Caucasus at solely 38. Badriashvili’s sister Rushka was additionally current.
This harsh reminder of dying within the mountains and its horrible collateral injury for the climbers’ family members confirmed the flip aspect of utmost alpinism. Excessive-level triumphs typically solely happen on the danger of dying. The results of those dangers are too grave to disregard.
Quiet climbers
The awards for all times achievement and for feminine mountaineering (a brand new class this yr) had been good examples of how not all climbers are pushed by the identical ambitions or interested in the identical form of objectives.
Jordi Corominas ski touring close to San Martino di Castrozza the day after the ceremony. Photograph: Christian Trommsdorff/Piolets d’Or
Jordi Corominas, who acquired a lifetime achievement Piolet d’Or, is just about unknown. Google acknowledges him primarily for the primary repetition of K2’s Magic line in 2008 and for his work as a mountain information. He refuses to make use of social media and barely checks WhatsApp and even activates his cellphone. He avoids publicity, ignores the media, and minimizes public appearances. His world is the nook of the Spanish Pyrenees, the place he lives and climbs day by day.
No surprise he’s a listener and a reader quite than a speaker. Few know he has opened dozens of routes on excessive mountains, particularly within the Andes, together with first ascents of Siula Chiko, Cerro San Lorenzo, and Chakraraju East.
A decade earlier than Jimmy Chin and Conrad Anker made Meru Peak within the Garhwal Himalaya well-known, because of their award-winning movie Meru, Corominas opened a brand new route on Meru East. His resumé additionally consists of Thalay Sagar, Dhaulagiri solo in gentle model…and a variety of different climbs he has not bothered to publicize.
But his repute as one of many most important figures in up to date Spanish alpinism hangs primarily on his work as a information and adviser to younger climbers: from the nationwide group of younger alpinists to his mentorship of a younger path runner and skimo racer who as soon as requested his recommendation on find out how to get began on the 8,000’ers: Kilian Jornet.
A particular lady
Nives Meroi is the primary Italian and second lady ever to finish the 14×8,000’ers with out supplementary oxygen or sherpas. However she has additionally tried a variety of new routes and nonetheless managed to climb some 8,000’ers the lonely approach. She first tried K2 from its North Facet in China and at last summited with husband Romano Benet by way of the Abruzzi Spur in 2006.
“We were completely alone without ropes on the Bottleneck, as no one had climbed the mountain that year or the year before,” Meroi recalled. “We called our K2 expedition ‘K for 2′ and have wonderful memories of it.”
She acquired her Piolet d’Or, particularly, for her 2023 first ascent of Kabru South, a 7,000m peak within the Kangchenjunga space, with companions Romano, Peter Hamor and Bojan Jan.
Meroi has climbed over 90% of her mountains with Romano Benet. Requested by journalists on the Piolets about coping with the 8,000m world as a lady, she noticed it as no drawback.
“Unlike sport climbing, where men and women are equally gifted, in high altitude alpinism, men have a physical advantage, thanks to greater strength and size. But we women have other skills that we use…We don’t climb better or worse, we just climb big mountains differently.”
She insists that gender is not any excuse to not climb in model. “Style is the combination of ethics and aesthetics,” she says.
Nives Meroi. Photograph: P. Drozdz/Piolets d’Or
After 4 a long time, the Piolets d’Or stays a significant yearly reminder for the climbing group about what’s essential. It isn’t about rating climbs however reminding us that alpinism is a human ardour that extends past sport, data, and egos. It’s a path to an enhanced degree of consciousness and a option to stay our fragile lives to the fullest.
Piolet d’Or poster. Photograph: Angela Benavides
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