Aussie mountaineer Allie Pepper is trying to climb the world’s 14 highest peaks with out supplemental oxygen in document time. With Broad Peak (8051m), Manaslu (8163m), Annapurna 1 (8091m) and Makalu (8485m) ticked, she and her accomplice Mikel Sherpa headed up K2 on the finish of July–returning simply in time to ship us an replace earlier than VL went to press!
On 1 July, Mikel and I flew into Islamabad, then on to Skardu the following morning. A 5 hour drive the following day took us to the distant village of Askole, which marks the beginning of the trek to K2 Base Camp. The trek alone is an journey of epic proportions. Alongside the best way, you’ll be able to see Broad Peak and K2 up the Godwin Austin Glacier.
Once we arrived at Base Camp, I had some catching as much as do to prepare for the summit push as I used to be now not acclimatised from Makalu. The climate had additionally not been good, and ropes had not but been fastened all the best way to Camp 3.
Mikel and I had deliberate to go up the mountain to sleep at Camp 3 for one night time earlier than our summit try. Nevertheless, K2 had different plans for us. Once we started climbing it turned extraordinarily windy, and we had been pressured to spend the night time at Camp 1, hoping the wind would die down. One night time was three nights at 6,090 metres. The wind didn’t abate, however we determined to go up anyway to Camp 2, which was chilly and tough within the circumstances. Sadly , the wind simply didn’t let up. After two nights at 6,650 metres at Camp 2, the forecast had solely worsened, so we determined to return down. Leaving the camp, I may hardly stroll, with winds at 80 to 100 km/hour. This primary rotation was not supreme for climbing to eight,611 metres with out oxygen.
On the twenty fourth, Mikel and I climbed to Camp 1; it took seven and half hours. It was nonetheless windy, however forecasts had stated it might begin to ease the following day. On the twenty sixth we left for Camp 3 round 7:30am. The path to Camp 3 may be very steep and technical, together with a vertical cliff known as the Black Pyramid. It was an extended day.
That night on the twenty eighth at precisely 5:55pm I left the camp to move to the summit. Mikel would observe behind me. I climbed for a few hours alone, in entrance of everybody, till he caught up with me under Camp 4. We had been sheltered from the wind till then, however as I climbed up a vertical part to the camp the wind hit me as soon as once more. It was draining my vitality attempting to maintain heat. I continued as Mikel stopped on the camp for a relaxation. Then I ended to regulate my buff. For maybe two minutes I took my gloves off to type it out. This was an enormous mistake as my fingers went utterly numb. Mikel caught as much as me and I couldn’t discuss. He had my mitts in his pack, and I wanted them. He helped me put them on, there have been a variety of tears as I acquired the screaming barfies. After round half-hour I may really feel my fingers once more, and fortunately I’ve no long-term harm from this quick incident.
At 10:08am previous the bottleneck, slightly below the place the physique of John Snorri got here to relaxation, I ended. It was in the midst of an ice wall at 8,320 metres. I used to be going too sluggish. We had requested climbers getting back from the summit how distant we had been. They had been all utilizing oxygen, and stated round three hours. I knew at that altitude with out oxygen, it might take me greater than double that point, that means I wouldn’t attain the summit earlier than 4pm.
This was not acceptable or conducive to survival on K2. I knew one hundred pc that I used to be not in a position to climb sooner; actually, if something, the upper I acquired, the slower I’d go. I needed to resolve. I knew I couldn’t summit with out utilizing oxygen in time and are available down safely. Often on this state of affairs I’d merely flip round and head again down. Nevertheless, we had been solely 300 metres in altitude from the summit. Mikel had come all this fashion by my facet and he would even have to show round and go down. He was carrying a spare emergency bottle of oxygen for me, in addition to the one he had been utilizing because the camp.
I realised I needed us to face on the summit collectively. The climate was superb, there was no wind. I must come again anyway so why not make the summit now in addition to later with out oxygen?
I informed Mikel I’d use the spare oxygen bottle to summit. He was very completely satisfied as he didn’t wish to flip again, but additionally didn’t need me to proceed going up with out oxygen. As soon as I placed on the oxygen masks I used to be in a position to proceed at a stable, regular tempo. I used to be already exhausted, so it didn’t work magic, but it surely helped quite a bit. After 4 hours, we reached the summit. It was so sizzling I bear in mind considering it might be attainable to face on the height in solely a swimsuit. I’ve by no means skilled that on an 8000er earlier than. With clear skies and a 360-degree view, it was the kind of summit goals are product of. ,
The descent was as anticipated—tough and painful. We bumped into many climbers who had been exhausted and struggling. A method or one other, fortunately, all of us acquired again to camp that night time. Mikel and I rolled into the tent at 8pm, roughly 26 hours after I left the day earlier than. I used to be so grateful to be alive, to have the ability to cease strolling and abseiling, and to lastly let my physique fall asleep.
The following day was past epic, getting down from Camp 3 again to Base Camp took round 11 hours. There was excessive wind, a variety of ready at abseils, falling rocks and boulders, avalanches and waterfalls the place beforehand there have been snow slopes. I assumed we’d by no means make it again. Then two days later there was the hike out. Extra falling rocks and boulders, an avalanche, a horse trip, a bridge destroyed by a flooded river and having to cross sitting in a picket field connected to a cable.
Am I disenchanted that I didn’t obtain my objective to summit K2 with out oxygen? I’m blessed to outlive, and I’m grateful to have made the choices that led to a profitable summit. I’m grateful that I didn’t put anybody else’s life in peril, together with my accomplice Mikel, due to my choices. I’ve many classes to study for my subsequent climb on K2. It could be a misinform say no a part of me is disenchanted, however greater than something, I’m proud.
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