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On October 20, Tanner Wanish and Mike Vaill, each from Utah and each 32, linked the Yosemite Journey Crown—a one-day link-up between El Capitan, Half Dome, and Mount Watkins—in 17 hours and 55 minutes, shaving roughly 35 minutes off of the earlier file, set in 2018 by Brad Gobright and Jim Reynolds.
“We were just trying to go sub-24 hours, so it was kind of amazing to learn we’d broken the record,” Wanish informed Climbing.
The Yosemite Triple Crown is among the hardest aims in big-wall climbing, requiring mastery of a broad vary of climbing expertise, in addition to bodily endurance and impeccable planning. The large link-up ascends greater than 7,000 vertical ft unfold between 71 pitches on three totally different iconic rock faces, with almost 20 miles of mountain climbing in between. Merely breaking the 24-hour mark locations the duo in unique firm: solely eight different events have accomplished so since Dean Potter and Timmy O’Neill first went beneath 24 hours in 2001. In 2012, Alex Honnold and Tommy Caldwell grew to become the primary (and up to now solely) crew to free it, finishing the link-up in 21 hours and quarter-hour. Later that yr, Honnold set the solo file, doing it in 18 hours 55 minutes.
A former Navy SEAL, Wanish has solely been mountain climbing for four-and-a-half years. However the Salt Lake Metropolis-native has already ascended among the hardest routes within the park.
“I was shooting above my pay grade because I feel like that’s how you get better,” Wanish mentioned. “With the Triple Crown, we didn’t have any guarantees or know we were going to succeed there.”
Vaill transferring by a free part on Watkins. (Picture: Tanner Wanish)
Wanish and Vaill, who lives in St. George, began climbing collectively in Yosemite in 2021 after connecting by way of the Mountain Venture web site. They first climbed the Nostril (5.9 c2; 3,000 ft) in October of that yr. “We climbed 50 hours straight through two nights to beat a storm,” Wanish mentioned.
In subsequent years, the duo took on tougher routes in Yosemite and succeeded. In 2022 they climbed the northwest face of Half Dome and the Freerider route on El Capitan. In 2023 they took on the NIAD (Nostril in a Day), hoping to finish the ascent in 16 hours. They did it in 9.
“I remember we were sitting up at the tree on top of the Nose, wide-eyed and silent after what we’d done,” Wanish mentioned. “In that moment, it was like the whole valley opened up to us, like we could climb anything.”
Every week later, they accomplished their first link-up: the Nostril and the Common Northwest Face of Half Dome (5.9 C1; 2,200 ft), a problem generally known as “Double.” Wanish known as it “the best day of climbing ever.” Earlier than they’d even topped out, they’d determined to strive the Triple Crown in 2024.
After receiving recommendation from different Triple Crown climbers, they determined to observe the usual order of climbs: the South Face of Mount Watkins(5.11 C2+; 2,200 ft), then the Nostril on El Cap, earlier than finishing the Common Northwest Face on Half Dome. The unofficial rule for timing the route is that the clock begins when the primary climber touches the primary wall. It ends after each climbers high out on the third route. The clock doesn’t cease for hikes or drives in between routes.
Wanish and Vaill touched the rock on the base of Mount Watkins at 4:00 P.M. on Saturday, October 19. Wanish took the lead for the primary half, with Vaill taking up to the highest. Climbing in blocks like that is commonplace for pace makes an attempt, because it’s extra environment friendly than switching leads each different pitch. Their complete time on Watkins was 2 hours and 55 minutes.
Wanish (left) and Vaill about to climb by the climb on the Nostril. (Picture: Noll)
They acquired again to Wanish’s van at 8:00 P.M., and his spouse was ready to drive them to the El Capitan meadow. They ate dinner and arranged their gear through the drive.
“At the meadow there was a big group of friends waiting on us,” Wanish mentioned. “They were all cheering and it was so good for morale—we knew we were going into a long night.”
They began climbing the Nostril at 9:30 P.M. After two hours of climbing in the dead of night, Wanish hit a low level. “I felt overwhelmed,” Wanish mentioned. “Maybe that’s not the right word. I just knew we had another seven hours of darkness and cold, and another 6,000 feet of climbing ahead of us.”
He swapped the lead with Vaill about midway up, as deliberate, on the pitch generally known as Camp IV. Whereas belaying Vaill, Wanish crammed as many Dealer Joe’s Fruit Bars into his mouth as he may abdomen. They topped out in 5 hours and 25 minutes and raced down the East Ledges to the meadow the place Wanish’s spouse was ready with a giant plate of pancakes, eggs, bacon, and loads of espresso.
“I was eating handfuls of eggs like an animal,” Wanish mentioned.
After a 15-minute drive to Half Dome, the duo needed to hike the so-called “Death Slabs” strategy to achieve the rock face. For a lot of events, the hike, which incorporates Class 4 scrambling, takes three hours to finish. They did it in an hour and a half. “We were charging,” Wanish mentioned.
They hit the wall at 6:30 A.M. and commenced simul-climbing the two,200-foot route. It took Wanish and Vaill 3.5 hours to summit the two,200-foot route. When Wanish hit cease on his watch, it was 9:55 A.M. on Sunday, October 20. They had been astonished by the 17 hours and 55 minute time—it was effectively beneath their purpose of 24 hours.
“We should go for a fourth wall, we have tons of time left,” Wanish mentioned.
Wanish (proper) and Vaill rejoice their file atop Half Dome (Picture: Joshua Noll)
“It was a nice surprise,” says Wanish. “Maybe we should have patted ourselves on the back more, but we were already talking about the ways we could have improved.”
Moreover, they have already got a brand new Yosemite climbing goal, one which they hope to finish in October. As for now, Wanish needs to maintain the bold problem a secret. “It will be even bigger than the speed record on the Triple Crown,” Wanish mentioned. “I can tell you that.”
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