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They’d put all of it on the road. In a single sense, Dane Steadman, Cody Winckler, and August Franzen’s try on Yashkuk Sar (6,667m/21,870ft) had been over a 12 months within the making. In one other, it was the product of a lifetime of busting ass within the alpine. They’d spent months planning, securing a Reducing Edge Grant from the American Alpine Membership, trucking into Pakistan’s distant Chapursan Valley, and blasting over 1,200 meters up the awe-inspiring north buttress of an unclimbed mountain. Now, they had been nested just under the headwall, on the apex of the buttress.
“It was the make or break of the entire route,” mentioned Franzen. “During our recon missions, and when acclimating on Sakar Sar [a neighboring 6,271-meter peak], we’d fixated on the headwall, looking for veins of ice and runnels and trying to piece together these systems.”
From beneath, they’d spied a delicate ribbon of ice—steep sufficient that it was protected against overhead hazards like seracs and rockfall—extending to the highest of the headwall. They thought they’d discovered their freeway. “It would be steep, hard climbing, but we were pretty damn certain this was the way,” Franzen mentioned.
In order that they arrange their bivy to the best of this method, cooked some dinner, crawled into their three-man sleeping bag, and settled in for the evening, prepping to get up early and “climb right up the gut of this runnel,” Franzen mentioned.
That’s when all hell broke free.
Dane Steadman reevaluating their goal after their deliberate lined avalanched. (Picture: August Franzen)
Jammed of their tent, the lads heard what sounded just like the wall collapsing. “Cody and I peeked out, and the entire headwall was in a haze of falling snow,” Franzen mentioned. They’d watched small slides and pockets of snow and ice collapsing round them all the climb, however now their chosen “safe” line was being obliterated by the most important avalanche they’d seen on the wall to date.
In a approach, the lads had been fortunate. In the event that they’d been on the wall a day earlier, they’d doubtless have been blown off the face like leaves. In one other sense, they had been hosed. Their “safe” line was clearly nothing of the type.
“There was nothing to do,” Franzen mentioned. “We just sat in silence, experiencing this sinking feeling of knowing we shouldn’t be here. All our planning, our scouting—we put so much faith and certainty into this line, and all of it just blew up as this avalanche tore down our intended route.”
Dane Steadman just under Summit of Sakar Sar, the group’s acclimatization goal. Yashkuk Sar—and their route Tiger Lily Buttress—are straight throughout the valley. (Picture: August Franzen)
Up until this level, issues had gone fairly easy, a minimum of so far as technical routes on unclimbed 6,000-meter mountains go. “There were no fist fights,” Franzen joked. Franzen and Winckler had been longtime buddies and had climbed collectively for years. He and Steadman, alternatively, had by no means a lot as climbed a pitch of rock collectively, however had been nudged in the direction of one another by mutual good friend and mentor Kelly Cordes. (“Yashkuk Sar was a pretty long blind date.”)
The group settled on the height as an goal final 12 months, after scrolling by way of Google Earth—Steadman’s concept. “We had this desire to find an unclimbed peak in the Karakoram at that sweet spot of 6,000-7,000 meters,” defined Franzen, “where it’s still high altitude climbing, but we could also climb hard technical pitches and be able to focus on the climbing, without having to worry so much about the altitude.”
Winckler and Steadman on the summit of Sakar Sar. (Picture: August Franzen)
Yashkuk Sar checked all these containers. It had been tried twice beforehand, first by a Russian group within the early 2000s, then by a Japanese group within the early 2010s, however neither expedition made it far. After elevating $20,000 from Patagonia, the American Alpine Membership, La Sportiva, and Beartooth Alpine, they headed to Pakistan’s Hunza for a two-month journey. They flew into Islamabad, after which Skardu, and drove northwest alongside the Silk Street, monitoring the Indus River in the direction of the Chapursan Valley. This distant fastness, inside spitting distance of Afghanistan, Tajikistan, and China’s far-western Kashgar Prefecture, had been closed to international groups for practically 15 years.
Their porters, Franzen mentioned, nonetheless remembered previous failures on Yashkuk Sar, and had been skeptical that the Individuals would get far. The group’s camp cook dinner, who spoke just a bit English, even dubbed them the “Pussy Boys.”
“It seemed like they were all thinking, ‘Oh, another team going for Yashkuk Sar… They’ll be back to carry their shit out in a week or so when they get shut down,’” Franzen mentioned.
Undeterred, they spent days scouting their goal, later making the second ascent of Sakar Sar, simply to the north, to acclimatize and ogle their deliberate line.
Tiger Lilly Buttress (AI 5+ M6 A0; 2000m). The road of ascent is in crimson. The road of descent is in yellow. (Picture: August Franzen)
After ready for a primary climate window, they set off in an alpine-style push. They first climbed a big snow and ice gully, which cut up two big rock faces, then started an angled traverse on blended terrain to a sprawling snowfield beneath a collection of ice runnels. Amid the runnels, they took a snowy slab out left to an ice arete, and arrange their first bivy, roughly 1,000 meters up the spur. The subsequent day, they picked up 400 meters of reasonable ice to a ridge, the place they bivied on a compressed cornice.
That’s the place they had been when their “safe” route up the headwall was blasted by an avalanche.
Franzen, Steadman, and Winckler scrambled to search out another, even contemplating retreat till Steadman noticed a collection of blended bands to the left of their supposed route, topped by a “crazy mushroom field, like a Cerro Torre simulator.” So the next day, they rappelled off the backbone and “vision quested” throughout the headwall, going partway up their sketchy supposed runnel, the place “slough and rock was still clattering down as we climbed” after which escaping onto the far left of the headwall.
They made a “ridiculous” third bivy on one other slim cornice, with either side of the tent protruding over the abyss. “We had to fill and line the sides of the tent with clothes and bags and boots and clip everything in to keep it weighted so that the tent wouldn’t sag and tip off one side or another,” mentioned Franzen. “It was the wildest sleepover I’ve ever had.”
The “ridiculous” bivy. (Picture: August Franzen)
On the fourth day, they encountered tenuous, steep, closely corniced snow that Winckler led with a mix of “levitation and burrowing,” and the toughest technical climbing (M6) of the route. From there, the angles slackened and so they entered the sprawling maze of snow mushrooms they’d seen from beneath. It was non-technical, however slow-going, a bonafide slog. After Steadman led an remoted arduous pitch at AI 5+, the group cruised just a few pitches of mellow ice as much as semi-flat floor.
Left: Franzen following Winckler crux headwall pitch. Proper: Steadman main upward by way of the ultimate mushroom forest. (Picture: Dane Steadman)
They weren’t on the summit but, however they had been above the headwall. They ended up bivying only a few hundred ft beneath the summit, in a “total wind funnel.” (They cracked the door of their tent for air flow, and wakened in the course of the evening fully buried in snow.)
The next morning, they took day packs and rambled as much as the highest, a hike Franzen mentioned he’ll always remember. “It was surreal,” he recalled. “It felt like a lucid dream.” Within the distance, they may see Nanga Parbat within the Himalaya, and Rakhaposhi within the Karakorum. To the north had been the mighty Pamir Mountains. On their different facet was Afghanistan and the Hindu Kush. “It was this crazy confluence, four different countries, four of the great mountain ranges, all accumulating in one valley,” mentioned Franzen.
Left: Winckler and Steadman following a central backbone. Proper: Franzen and Winckler topping out Yashkuk Sar’s North Buttress. (Picture: August Franzen & Dane Steadman)
Loath to descend by way of their chaotic line of ascent, they made 10 rappels down a distinguished western couloir, then climbed up the west ridge after which went straight again down the westernmost fringe of the north face to their camp, reaching the glacier round 4:00 p.m.
The lads dubbed their effort Tiger Lily Buttress (AI 5+ M6 A0; 2,000m), not after the eponymous Peter Pan princess, however as an ode to the legendary Moonflower Buttress on Alaska’s Mount Hunter (14,573ft), which had served as a proving floor for all three at numerous factors over time. (However the identify had a double which means: Upon returning to their base camp profitable, the group’s cook dinner eliminated his “Pussy Boys” moniker and rechristened them the “Tiger Boys.”)
Franzen mentioned the expertise was a convincing pushback towards the narrative that Earth’s mountains have tracks throughout them, and to discover a “first,” alpinists must carry out some contrived variation. “There are countless peaks out there that are unclimbed,” Franzen mentioned. “I mean, we were looking at them from the summit. Unclimbed peaks, unclimbed faces, features, and it’s all so tangible. All it takes is careful planning, flexibility, creativity, and patience.”
Dane Steadman, August Franzen, and Cody Winckler on the summit of Yashkuk Sar. (Picture: August Franzen)
Franzen taking first steps onto summit plateau. (Picture: Cody Winckler)
Flexibility, creativity, and persistence had been definitely essential within the journey up Tiger Lily, however Gardner’s demise additionally made the lads rethink the position luck had performed, in not simply their success, however survival. “Being at that bivy and deciding to climb a day later, not being in that gully when the avalanche ripped, any number of things could have changed the outcome for us, ” mentioned Franzen. “It’s sobering.”
If there was one other lesson Franzen and his companions realized on Yashkuk Sar, it was to axe their vainglory earlier than tying in. Abandoning their authentic ascent line by rappelling off the cornice after their second bivy didn’t simply imply going into untracked territory, it additionally meant that the lads misplaced the possibility to say a “free” ascent, netting a A0 score on their grade.
“I’m not too proud to say we rappelled,” Franzen mentioned, “but getting down, climbing through this runnel, and getting out of the hangfire was more important than doing a contrived traverse just to claim the free grade. We weren’t going to piss away all this time for numbers or credentials. There is no room for ego up there.”
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