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Flying mild, quick, and below the radar, Japanese climbers Hidesuke Taneishi and Hiroki Yamamoto pioneered their manner up a brutally steep, unclimbed North Face onto a virgin summit in Nepal: Pholesobi (6,651m/21,824ft). They climbed their 1,500-meter route, graded ED+, from October 28 to 31.
Pholesobi lies a bit greater than two miles west of the notorious Kumbhakarna (higher generally known as Jannu), a 7,709-meter mountain that has been the scene of each triumph and tragedy in current months. An American trio made a notable ascent of the principle peak’s North Face final fall—for which they obtained a prestigious Piolets d’Or —and one other American, Michael Gardner, died trying the North Face of its subpeak Jannu East, with associate Sam Hennessey.
This was Taneishi and Yamamoto’s second time on Pholesobi, which rests in Jannu’s shadow. A 2023 try noticed them retreat from 6,149 meters on the North Face, after Yamamoto developed pneumonia and pulmonary edema and almost died. “He was almost unable to move,” Taneishi informed Climbing. “He ended up staying in the same hospital in Kathmandu as the American members of the Jannu North Face team for a week.”
(Photograph: Hidesuke Taneishi and Hiroki Yamamoto)
Yamamoto and Taneishi returned this 12 months to place their climb to mattress. The latter spoke matter of factly of their motivations. “We wanted to climb a wall, and Pholesobi had a steep wall,” he mentioned. “It was also an unclimbed mountain that no one had attempted, and as climbers, we wanted to see the North Face of Jannu, which is very fascinating.”
Their route, which they dubbed the North Face Direct, consisted of spectacular combined climbing on gleaming white granite, steep mountaineering, and sections of deep snow requiring intensive excavation. “[The snow climbing] was mentally exhausting because we were [constantly] runout,” Taneishi mentioned.
“The upper wall was solid verglas and the rock was exposed, so it was easy to take protection. Therefore, although it was technical, it was mentally easy,” Taneishi mentioned. The route’s crux was a combined pitch consisting of “mottled verglas and rock” at round 6,349 meters. “[Our route] was much steeper than other Himalayan walls we have tried,” Taneishi mentioned. “It felt like climbing [Alaska’s Mount] Hunter or the North Face of [Grandes] Jorasses.”
(Photograph: Hidesuke Taneishi and Hiroki Yamamoto)
As a result of wall’s steepness, Taneishi reported that they skilled little or no rockfall on route. “There were occasional rock falls from the lower wall,” Taneishi mentioned, “but because the slope was steep, there was little risk of the rocks hitting [us] directly; the rocks seemed to fall down [behind us].” On the higher wall, there was no rockfall by any means. The group additionally had little problem with wind, similar to in 2023. “I feel protected by Jannu,” he defined. “I spoke with Sam [Hennessey] after Michael’s accident, and it seems that the wind is strongest on Jannu East, and tends to get weaker as you go west, to Jannu Main and Pholesobi.”
Final 12 months the pair introduced a tent, however have been solely capable of pitch it within the center part of the face, the place its angle eased off. Their different two bivouacs have been spent sitting upright. This time, they used an inflatable Grade VII Tools 1.5-person POD and a two-person sleeping bag, each given to them by Hennessey, after he descended from Jannu East.
(Photograph: Hidesuke Taneishi and Hiroki Yamamoto)
Taneishi mentioned the POD was an actual boon. “You don’t have to think hard about where to set it up, like you would with a tent,” he defined. “Being able to sleep anywhere is a lot easier mentally when climbing a big wall with no information.” Nonetheless, he famous that sharing the 1.5 POD was not almost as snug as sharing a two-person tent. And because of the squishy, inflatable nature of the POD, which had incurred just a few holes and deflated throughout the night time, it was somewhat unstable. Boiling water was additionally tough with no hanging equipment for his or her range.
Taneishi was reluctant to dive into the particular difficulties of any pitch, noting that he felt an general ED+ was the one solution to precisely grade the route. “The conditions in alpine climbing are always changing from time to time, and the grade is almost meaningless,” he mentioned. “For example, the Japanese team who climbed Pandra [6,850m] in the Kangchenjunga area this year, said that the grade was completely different from the previous climb by the French team.”
Neither Taneishi nor Yamamoto are significantly well-known within the West—regardless of being extremely completed alpinists, massive wallers, and 5.14 sport climbers—and each have full-time jobs. Taneishi, 38, was classically understated when he spoke with Climbing about his profession to this point. “I don’t have any particular climbs that I’m proud of,” he mentioned. “I still consider myself a very active climber,” he remarked, laughing, “so I don’t want to look back on the past just yet, I want to enjoy climbing in the present and the future.” Nonetheless, he has accomplished laborious alpine climbs within the Alps and Alaska Vary, and large wall free climbs within the Dolomites. Yamamoto has climbed laborious world wide as effectively, notably placing up lauded new routes on peaks like Kang Nachugo (6,736m) and Cerro Kishtwar (6,173m).
On the summit of Pholesobi. Jannu’s North Face is the shaded face instantly behind the climbers. (Photograph: Hidesuke Taneishi and Hiroki Yamamoto)
The 2 make an excellent group, as a result of “Yamamoto and I are the same age, so we can talk about anything casually,” Taneishi mentioned. He added that, in contrast to many Japanese individuals, they’re each naturally informal and casual. “We don’t use honorific language when speaking to older people, and we both have families and full-time jobs. Our [home lives] are very similar.”
This season possible introduced combined emotions for the boys returning to Jannu. A number of well-known Japanese climbers have handed away this 12 months, together with massive waller Keita Kurakami on Mt. Fuji and alpinists Kenro Nakajima and Kazuya Hiraide on K2, to not point out Gardner’s loss of life on Jannu East solely weeks earlier than. Not solely that, however Taneishi and Yamamoto have been utilizing the identical shelter and sleeping bag Gardner and Hennessey had used on their climb.
However Taneishi mentioned that studying to deal with these losses is a essential a part of alpinism, and one thing he continuously struggles with. “After many years of alpine climbing, death is so close to me that I’m pretty dry and calm about it,” he mentioned. “Many of my friends have died so far.” Nakajima’s loss of life, specifically, was laborious for Yamamoto to simply accept. The 2 had been climbing companions for almost 20 years, since their days at college. Upon studying of his loss of life, Taneishi mentioned his and Yamamoto’s “motivation to climb was momentarily extinguished.”
“I believe Hiroki overcame Kenro’s death by meeting with his surviving family, talking with them, empathizing with them, and sharing his story of death and his way of life with them,” Taneishi mentioned. He added that, after spending a while with Nakajima’s household, they obtained “warm encouragement” to proceed climbing and to pursue their goal on Pholesobi.
Taneishi and Yamamoto devoted their climb of Pholesobi’s North Face Direct to Michael Gardner and Toshiyuki “Toshi” Yamada, an authentic member of the group who suffered a herniated disc and needed to bail on their journey.
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